Gloria Estefan's voice sings from the (ahem) sound machine. Diners at adjacent tables tell stories about the old country and discuss where they used to live in Miami between bites of perfect tostones. The Cubanity, so to speak, is undeniable.

Owners Irvin and Nadia Rey have successfully converted a typically horrendous Springs space into a homey gathering place. They've painted the ceiling red, sculpted archways into the drywall and tiled the floor. Contemporary art, romantic Cuba tourism posters from the '50s and beautiful black-and-white photographs line the walls. Gloria Estefan's voice sings from the (ahem) sound machine. Diners at adjacent tables tell stories about the old country and discuss where they used to live in Miami between bites of perfect tostones. The Cubanity, so to speak, is undeniable.

Other items are already in good shape. The tostones, coins of green plantain that are fried, pressed and fried again, are crisp and starchy and come with a dynamite mojo sauce fashioned from garlic, oil and sour orange juice. Little sticks of fried yucca, a potato-like tuber common in Caribbean kitchens, and coconut-battered fried shrimp served with a compelling mango ketchup also hit the mark.

Among the entrées, vaca frita and masitas de puerco stood out during my visits. Literally translated as "fried cow," the former is a pan-fried skirt steak; the latter are chunky cubes of slow-cooked pork that have subsequently been returned to the fire to crisp the exterior. Both proved flavorful and juicy, with jolts of garlic and onion.

Irvin and Nadia are new to the restaurant business, and it seems like some of the inconsistencies reflect their relative inexperience. But these challenges haven't kept Cubanacan from succeeding as a casual spot for connecting with compatriots and enjoying a hearty meal. A little more time, a little more practice and a few minor tweaks should really make the difference. I'll be cheering for them and stopping by to practice my Spanish, daydream about Miami and sip on a deliciously tropical blend of mango and passionfruit juice.

-DAVID TORRES-ROUFF of csindy.com